What do you get when you introduce four of Coonawarra’s up-and-coming winemakers—dressed in vintage attire—to a visiting writer in the dining room of Yallum Park, John Riddoch’s 1870s built Victorian Homestead, complete in its grandeur with William Morris wallpaper, 15-foot ceilings and Italian marble fireplaces? Well, you get quite the paradox not to mention an incredibly entertaining night!
But, you also get the opportunity to discover just how the Coonawarra Wine Region, famed for its age-worthy Cabernets and good dirt, is weaving its rich agricultural history—to which Riddoch was paramount—with its current trajectory.
And, as this writer quickly learnt, it’s a direction being influenced by youthful energy, fresh perspectives and new approaches. It’s also one being fuelled by the extended community and industry veterans, who appear to be opening their arms to the influx of youthful vitality and embracing it wholeheartedly.
Recently, these four young winemakers, along with the welcomed addition of longtimer Sue Bell, took time out of their busy schedules to embrace my curiosity and answer a few questions on Coonawarra’s past, present and future. Here’s what they had to say…
What excites you about Coonawarra?
Rachel McBryde, Katnook Estate:
The diversity of ideas and wine styles that are down here. The relationship between generations of winemakers is collaborative and inclusive in a way I haven’t seen in other regions. Everyone is open but at the same time has so much love for the great wines that have gone before.
How does Coonawarra’s history influence your winemaking style?
Lauren Hansen, Penley Estate:
I’d love to think I could make a Cabernet that someone might drink in 20+ years, but I also want to make a wine someone can grab and drink now. History is important, but so is evolution.
What does the future of Coonawarra look like?
Daniel McNicol, Katnook Estate:
Though I believe Cabernet will always be our hallmark, we are seeing emerging varieties, styles and expressions being released. More modern ‘drink now’ styles—elegant and approachable on release yet retaining age-ability.
Can you share something people might be surprised to discover about the region?
Jacinta ‘JJ’ Jenkins, Balnaves of Coonawarra:
There’s a fantastic Penola Coonawarra Arts Festival in May; exhibitions, live music and performances. Definitely worth the trip!
Sue Bell, Bellwether Wines:
The number of canoe scars in our giant red gums. From a time when we were swamp country and clearly densely populated. The oldest artefact in the Adelaide museum is a 10,000 year old boomerang from Wyrie Swamp near Millicent. And Jill’s vintage—an absolute treasure [and the supplier of all the outfits worn by the winemakers in the photos accompanying these words].
And to finish, what’s a quintessential Coonawarra food and wine pairing we should all try at home?
Rachel McBryde, Katnook Estate:
Katnook Amara Cabernet Sauvignon with low and slow BBQ, mac and cheese and collard greens.
Lauren Hansen, Penley Estate:
Penley Estate Francis Cabernet Franc with dumplings.
Daniel McNicol, Katnook Estate:
Katnook Cabernet with braised lamb shanks and duck fat roasted potatoes.
Jacinta ‘JJ’ Jenkins, Balnaves of Coonawarra:
Balnaves Chardonnay with fresh Flake and chips
Sue Bell, Bellwether Wines:
Bellwether Cabernet with eggplant and capsicum based spanish eggs with lots of fresh greens including warrigul and salt bush—who knew a glass of Cabernet would work at breakfast?!?
Amanda Eve (aka me), The Interviewer and Wine Media Cadet:
Taschini Pinot Gris, Graciano, Sangiovese with any form of pizza on a warm day—a combo I first tried whilst in Coonawarra and have gone back to several times since!
Read the full article HERE.